Pause Installation Guide – Jr.

Atari 2600 Jr. Pause Mod Installation Guide

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to allow you to pause your system. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, or Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ bit
  • Razor Blade

The first step is to assemble the mod kit. The components are all marked on the PCB, and you can also follow on the picture below. Make sure you put the 1k resistors on the outside and the 1.5k in the middle. The 1.5k will have a green stripe on it. The resistors and the ceramic disc capacitor can go in either direction. The 3 diodes and the 14 pin IC have to go in a certain way so make sure you follow the notches on the PCB and the picture below. Once you finish soldering all the components clip the excess leads off the bottom and you are done with the components.

102_0226

  • Next you attach the wires to the mod kit. The holes in the circuit board are labeled for the wires. In order from top to bottom the color is Black for GND, Red for +5v (Vcc), Yellow for 6507, and blue for TIA. The other two long wires should go to Sw 1 and 2, they are for the switch. The color does not matter, so use whatever is included in the kit with Sw 1 and 2. Use the wire strippers to take off about 1/4″ and solder the wires into the mod board. Then solder the other end of the blue wires to the switch. One wire should go to the middle pole, and the other to the top or bottom. It does not matter which one goes where for the switch. Now the mod kit is ready to go.

102_0229

  • Now your ready to open up the console. Turn the Atari over and remove the 5 screws. There are 3 tabs, one on either end and one in the middle. Use a flat headed screwdriver or some similar tool to bend the tabs like in the picture so you can take the top cover off. If the tabs break it is not a problem as they can be a pain to get off. You don’t really need them because the screws hold it together. Now take the main board out of the bottom case by pushing out two more tabs on the inside.

  • Turn the main board over and using the needle nose pliers, bend up and straighten the tabs around the metal cover. That will allow you to remove the bottom cover and set it aside. Underneath it are more tabs to straighten. After that you can remove the top metal covers and set them aside too.

  • There are two modifications which must be made to the main board. First you must remove a resistor (R39), and then use the razor blade to cut a trace. Both locations are marked in the picture below. The resistor is 4.7K (Yellow-Purple-Red). You can remove the resistor by de-soldering or cutting it. If you cut it be sure to use your de-soldering tool to clear both holes on the top and bottom as you will be using them for attaching wires. Make the cut with the razor blade right in the diagonal section, and be careful when cutting as you don’t want to damage other traces. This will sever the connection between pin 3 of the TIA chip and pin 3 of the 6507 chip.

  • When you are finished it’s a good idea to test for continuity between pin 3 of the two chips and make sure the trace has been severed. You can do this by using the holes marked TIA and 6507. Next it’s time to connect the wires. The Black GND wire goes to the nearest hole on the metal strip where the casing was. (There might be something in the hole but you can poke it out with the wire). The Red +5v goes to the bottom hole of R39. The Blue TIA goes to the open hole near the bottom of the board. The Yellow 6507 wire goes to the top hole of R39.

  • Now you should test the Atari to make sure everything is working correctly. Attach the power and RF cable and fire it up. If the pause switch is on you will get a blank screen when powering on the system, so if you are not getting a picture try flipping the switch. If it still doesn’t work then check all of your connections and make sure they are correct. If it is hooked up correctly you should be able to pause your Atari (When paused the Atari will display random color or black output like the picture below, this is normal).

  • Now you are done with the board. Use the double sided tape and attach the mod to the top of one of the IC chips. Then put the metal covers back on and make sure all the wires are tucked inside and don’t come loose in the process. The blue wires for the switch should be coming out of the left side of the metal casing. You can also drill a hole in the casing to feed the wires through if you like. Be sure to bend the metal tabs so the casing holds in place.
  • Now drill a 1/4″ hole for the toggle switch in the case. The location is pretty much based on your own preference, just make sure the blue wires are long enough and reach where the hole is. Remove the nut and washer and push the threaded part through the hole. Slip on the washer and then the nut and make sure it is tight enough so the switch doesn’t move around.

  • Now put the board back in the case. Make sure the power and color/b&w switch are in the right place or the cover won’t fit. It’s a good idea to do one last test before you put the screws back in. After that fire up a game and feel free to pause it whenever and get yourself a cold drink, you’ve earned it 🙂 Then leave me a comment and let me know how it went….

Pause Installation Guide – 6 Switch

Atari 2600 6 Switch Pause Mod Installation Guide

 

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to allow you to pause your system. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, or Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ bit
  • Razor Blade

  • The first step is to assemble the mod kit. The components are all marked on the PCB, and you can also follow on the picture below. Make sure you put the 1k resistors on the outside and the 1.5k in the middle. The 1.5k will have a green stripe on it. The resistors and the ceramic disc capacitor can go in either direction. The 3 diodes and the 14 pin IC have to go in a certain way so make sure you follow the notches on the PCB and the picture below. Once you finish soldering all the components clip the excess leads off the bottom and you are done with the components. 102_0226
  • Next you attach the wires to the mod kit. The holes in the circuit board are labeled for the wires. In order from top to bottom the color is Black for GND, Red for +5v (Vcc), Yellow for 6507, and blue for TIA. The other two long wires should go to Sw 1 and 2, they are for the switch. The color does not matter, so use whatever is included in the kit with Sw 1 and 2. Use the wire strippers to take off about 1/4″ and solder the wires into the mod board. Then solder the other end of the blue wires to the switch. One wire should go to the middle pole, and the other to the top or bottom. It does not matter which one goes where for the switch. Now the mod kit is ready to go.
  • 102_0229
  • No it’s time to open the Atari. Turn it over and remove the 8 screws. Set them aside for later. Disconnect the RF cable and set it aside. Then take both the switchboard and main board out of the case. Take off the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside for later.

  • Unplug the ribbon cable and remove the two screws on either side of the main board case. This will disconnect the main board from the switchboard. Also set aside the dust cover for the joystick and power ports. Now take the metal casing and turn it over. Unscrew the 6 screws there and set aside the bottom part of the metal casing.

  • Now remove the two screws connecting the main board to the top casing. Take the main board out and it is ready to be modified.

  • There are two modifications which must be made to the main board. First you must remove a resistor (R207), and then use the razor blade to cut a trace. Both locations are marked in the picture below. The resistor is 4.7K (Yellow-Purple-Red). You can remove the resistor by de-soldering or cutting it. If you cut it be sure to use your de-soldering tool to clear both holes on the top and bottom as you will be using them for attaching wires. Make the cut with the razor blade right in the diagonal section, and be careful when cutting as you don’t want to damage other traces. This will sever the connection between pin 3 of the TIA chip and pin 3 of the 6507 chip. When you are finished it’s a good idea to test for continuity to make sure the trace is severed, you can do this by testing at the pins marked TIA and 6507.

  • Next it is time to connect the wires. The Black GND wire goes to the top left hole in the board as pictured below (It looks like an IC should be there but it is missing). You might need to use your desolder tool first. The Red +5v goes to the bottom hole of 207. The Blue TIA goes to the top hole of R207. The Yellow 6507 wire goes to pin 3 of the 6507 IC. This is the most difficult to solder. The best way is to put some solder on the pin before you attach the wire. Then re-melt the solder and attach the wire. Be careful not to bridge the connection with the pins next to it and you don’t want to leave your soldering iron touching the pin for too long so you don’t risk damaging the chip.

  • Now you should test the Atari to make sure everything is working correctly. Attach the switchboard, power, and RF cable and fire it up. If the pause switch is on you will get a blank screen when powering on the system, so if you are not getting a picture try flipping the switch. If it still doesn’t work then check all of your connections and make sure they are correct. If it is hooked up correctly you should be able to pause your Atari (When paused the Atari will display random color or black output like the picture below, this is normal).

  • Now it’s time to put everything back together in reverse order. First use the double sided tape to attach the pause board to the top of one of the IC chips. Take the two light blue wires and feed them through the bottom hole in the metal case as shown below. Then put the main board back in the metal casing. Screw it into the top first, then put the bottom on and screw that as well. Attach the switchboard cable and put the whole board back into the bottom plastic case. Attach the 2 screws at the base of the switchboard.

  • Now drill a 1/4″ hole for the toggle switch in the case. The location is pretty much based on your own preference, just make sure the blue wires are long enough and reach where the hole is. Solder the blue wires to the switch. One wire goes to the center pole of the switch, and the other to either of the remaining ones. Remove the nut and washer and push the threaded part through the hole. Slip on the washer and then the nut and make sure it is tight enough so the switch doesn’t move around.

  • Replace the foam dust covers. Plug in the RF cable and feed it back through the bottom cover and then replace the top cover. Make sure everything fits and test the pause switch one more time before you put the screws back in. After that fire up a game and feel free to pause it whenever and get yourself a cold drink, you’ve earned it:) Then leave me a comment and let me know how it went….

Pause Installation Guide – 4 Switch

Atari 2600 4 Switch Pause Mod Installation Guide

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to allow you to pause your system. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, or Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ bit
  • Razor Blade

  • The first step is to assemble the mod kit. The components are all marked on the PCB, and you can also follow on the picture below. Make sure you put the 1k resistors on the outside and the 1.5k in the middle. The 1.5k will have a green stripe on it. The resistors and the ceramic disc capacitor can go in either direction. The 3 diodes and the 14 pin IC have to go in a certain way so make sure you follow the notches on the PCB and the picture below. Once you finish soldering all the components clip the excess leads off the bottom and you are done with the components. 102_0226
  • Next you attach the wires to the mod kit. The holes in the circuit board are labeled for the wires. In order from top to bottom the color is Black for GND, Red for +5v (Vcc), Yellow for 6507, and blue for TIA. The other two long wires should go to Sw 1 and 2, they are for the switch. The color does not matter, so use whatever is included in the kit with Sw 1 and 2. Use the wire strippers to take off about 1/4″ and solder the wires into the mod board. Then solder the other end of the blue wires to the switch. One wire should go to the middle pole, and the other to the top or bottom. It does not matter which one goes where for the switch. Now the mod kit is ready to go.
  • 102_0229

  • Next you need to open up your Atari. Turn the Atari over and remove the 4 screws. Set them aside for later. Remove the main board out of the console by disconnecting the RF cable. shown below. Take off the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside for later. Take the foil tape off the switches and you can try to save that as well but it isn’t a big deal if it rips off.

  • Using the need nose pliers, bend up the 4 tabs around the metal case. Remove the metal casing (top and bottom) and set it aside for later. You should now have the main board ready to be modified.

  • There are two modifications which must be made to the main board. First, you need to cut a trace with the razor blade, then you must remove a resistor (R201). The resistor is 4.7K (Yellow-Purple-Red). It’s location will slightly vary depending on what 4 switch version you have. Two different locations are pictured below, but it will always be in that general area. You can remove the resistor by de-soldering or cutting it. If you cut it be sure to use your de-soldering tool to clear both holes on the top and bottom as you will be using them for attaching wires.

  • Now this is the tricky part so be careful. There is a trace that needs to be cut with a razor blade that is marked with the small circle in the above pictures. You can cut anywhere along that trace you like. Be sure not to damage other traces. This will sever the connection between pin 3 of the TIA chip and pin 3 of the 6507 chip. When you are finished it’s a good idea to test for continuity between pin 3 of the two chips and make sure the trace has been severed. The picture below is what it looks like when finished.

  • Next it is time to connect the wires. The Black GND wire goes to the nearest hole on the metal strip where the casing was. The Red +5v goes to the top hole of R201. The Blue TIA goes to the bottom hole of R201. The Yellow 6507 wire goes to pin 3 of the 6507 IC. This is the most difficult to solder. The best way is to put some solder on the pin before you attach the wire. Then re-melt the solder and attach the wire. Be careful not to bridge the connection with the pins next to it and you don’t want to leave your soldering iron touching the pin for too long so you don’t risk damaging the chip.

  • Now you should test the Atari to make sure everything is working correctly. Attach the power and RF cable and fire it up. If the pause switch is on you will get a blank screen when powering on the system, so if you are not getting a picture try flipping the switch. If it still doesn’t work then check all of your connections and make sure they are correct. If it is hooked up correctly you should be able to pause your Atari (When paused the Atari will display random color or black output like the picture below, this is normal).

  • Now you are done with the main board. Use the double sided tape and attach the mod to the top of one of the IC chips. Then put the metal cover back on and make sure all the wires are tucked inside and don’t come loose in the process. The blue wires for the switch should be coming out of the left side of the metal casing. You can also drill a hole in the casing to feed the wires through if you like. Be sure to bend the metal tabs so the casing holds in place.

  • Now drill a 1/4″ hole for the toggle switch in the case. The location is pretty much based on your own preference, just make sure the blue wires are long enough and reach where the hole is. Remove the nut and washer and push the threaded part through the hole. Slip on the washer and then the nut and make sure it is tight enough so the switch doesn’t move around.

  • Replace the foam dust covers and foil strips for the switches. Feed the RF cable back through the bottom cover and then put the board back in the case and replace the top cover. Make sure everything fits and test the pause switch one more time before you put the screws back in. After that fire up a game and feel free to pause it whenever and get yourself a cold drink, you’ve earned it 🙂 Then leave me a comment and let me know how it went….

Installation Guide – 6 Switch

Atari 2600 6 Switch Video Mod Installation Guide

 

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits

  • Turn the Atari over and remove the 8 screws. Set them aside for later. Disconnect the RF cable and throw it away. Then take both the switchboard and main board out of the case. Take off the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside for later.

  • Unplug the ribbon cable and remove the two screws on either side of the main board case. This will disconnect the main board from the switchboard. Also set aside the dust cover for the joystick and power ports. Now take the metal casing and turn it over. Unscrew the 6 screws there and throw away the bottom part of the metal casing.

  • Now remove the two screws connecting the main board to the top casing. Take the main board out and it is ready to be modified.

  • In the middle of the board on the right hand side is a transistor (Q202). you need to remove the transistor by cutting all 3 leads with the wire cutters. When done it should look like this.

  • Now take the switchboard. You need to cut the 5 pins going into the RF modulator circuit board (silver box with circuit board attached to side. I usually break off the small circuit board attached to the RF modulator and throw it out, but if you want you can bend the pins up out of the way and leave the small circuit board attached. Remove the 5 pins using your de-soldering tool so that the holes are open as in the picture below.

  • Now it’s time to assemble the circuit board. Just follow the picture below and solder in the transistor, 2.2k Resistor (Red-Red-Red), and 3.3k Resistor (Orange-Orange-Red). The components are labeled on the circuit board so it should be pretty easy to see where they go.

IMG_4115

  • You should have two pieces of 4 conductor wire. First, strip off the white sheathing. You can save about an inch of it to help group the wires together if you like. Next, throw out one of the yellow wires. Now you should have two groups of wires. A group of 3 output wires (Red, Black, and Blue), and a group of 4 input wires (Red, Black, Blue, and Yellow). With the new wire I use, Blue replaces Green and Yellow replaces White in the pictures. The group of 4 wires are the input wires that go to the main board. Strip about 1/2″ off of both ends of the input wires and attach them to the mod kit. Black is the GND, Red is +5v, Blue is Video, and Yellow is Audio.
  • The group of 3 wires are out wires that attach to the RCA jacks. The output wires should be stripped to different lengths as in the picture. About 1/2″ for Blue, 1″ for Red, and 2″ for Black. On the output side of the mod kit, Black is for GND, Red for Audio, and Blue for Video.

IMG_4125IMG_4123

  • Attach the Black, Red, and Blue input wires to the switchboard like in the picture and solder them in from underneath. Make sure the Black wire goes into pin 1 where the RF modulator pins were. The Red goes into pin 3, and the Blue into pin 4. Take the main board and turn it over. The Yellow wire needs to be attached from underneath because of the metal casing. Attach it to the hole indicated on the left side of the board as in the picture. There is no component in this hole but you might need to remove the solder first with your de-soldering tool. This is an open hole connected to C210 if you look at the board from the top.

  • Now you need to remove a resistor (R213) along the bottom of the main board. You can just cut it off at both ends. Now the main board and switchboard are done.

  • Take the bottom half of the case and put a piece of masking tape where you want the RCA jacks to go. Use a ruler and marker and make 3 dots on the tape 1/2″ apart. Then drill 1/8” pilot holes on the dots, and use the 1/4” drill bits on the holes to make them ready for the RCA jacks. The tape and marker are just extra precautions, you could also just drill the holes if you want.

  • Attach the RCA jacks by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or near he top and bend them down to make soldering easier. Take the Black output wire with the longest amount of bare wire and solder it to all three ground rings like in the picture below. Take the Red wire and solder it to the Red and White jacks. Take the Blue wire and solder it to the yellow jack.

  • Now you are ready to put everything back together. First you need to adjust the color potentiometer on the bottom left of the main board. It is the big plastic circle and is the only pot on the board. Attach the power, ribbon, and RCA cables and use a game you are familiar with to adjust it so the colors are just right. A game like Frogger or Pitfall with a variety of bright colors is ideal.

  • Now unplug everything, and put the top metal casing over the main board and secure it with the two screws. Then screw in the switch board to the main board and put them both in the case. Be sure to put the dust cover back on the plugs and joystick ports and the foam covers on all the switches. Then peel the bottom off of the double sided tape and stick it to the bottom case on the right hand side.

  • Now put the top cover back on, and put back the 8 screws back in. Start with the two in the middle. After that you are done and ready to enjoy your Atari with composite video! Please leave a comment below and let me know how you made out!

Installation Guide – 4 Switch

Atari 2600 4 Switch Video Mod Installation Guide


Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


Tools You Will Need

  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron and Solder
  • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
  • Wire Cutters/Strippers
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits

  • Turn the Atari over and remove the 4 screws. Set them aside for later. Remove the main board out of the console by disconnecting the RF cable shown below. Take off the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside for later. Take the foil tape off the switches and throw it away.

  • Using the need nose pliers, bend up the 4 tabs around the metal case. Remove the metal casing (top and bottom) and throw it away. You should now have the main board like this ready to modify.

  • In the middle of the board is a transistor you will have to remove. It is labeled Q201 on some 4 switch versions and Q202 on others. It’s shown in the picture on the left. Simply cut all 3 leads of the transistor and throw it out. Make sure none of the leads coming out of the board are touching each other. Then you need to remove the 4 pins to the RF modulator (metal box with small circuit board attached). Simply cut the pins and bend them up so they are out of the way, or you could break off the small circuit board entirely because it is no longer used.

  • Now it’s time to assemble the circuit board. Just follow the picture below and solder in the transistor, 2.2k Resistor (Red-Red-Red), and 3.3k Resistor (Orange-Orange-Red). The components are labeled on the circuit board so it should be pretty easy to see where they go.

IMG_4115

  • You should have two pieces of 4 conductor wire. First, strip off the white sheathing. You can save about an inch of it to help group the wires together if you like. Next, throw out one of the yellow wires. Now you should have two groups of wires. A group of 3 output wires (Red, Black, and Blue), and a group of 4 input wires (Red, Black, Blue, and Yellow). With the new wire I use, Blue replaces Green and Yellow replaces White in the pictures. The group of 4 wires are the input wires that go to the main board. Strip about 1/2″ off of both ends of the input wires and attach them to the mod kit. Black is the GND, Red is +5v, Blue is Video, and Yellow is Audio.
  • The group of 3 wires are out wires that attach to the RCA jacks. The output wires should be stripped to different lengths as in the picture. About 1/2″ for Blue, 1″ for Red, and 2″ for Black. On the output side of the mod kit, Black is for GND, Red for Audio, and Blue for Video.

IMG_4125IMG_4123

  • First you need to use your de-soldering tool and clean out the holes where the RF modulator pins were. Then connect the input wires and solder them in from underneath as shown in the picture. Make sure the black wire goes to pin #1, red to pin #3, and blue to pin #4. Then attach the yellow wire to the base of the resistor as shown (R206). You could also use the open hole on the capacitor immediately to the right (C208), as they are connected to each other. Now the main board is done.

  • Take the bottom half of the case and put a piece of masking tape where you want the RCA jacks to go. Use a ruler and marker and make 3 dots on the tape 1/2″ apart. Then drill 1/8” pilot holes on the dots, and use the 1/4” drill bits on the holes to make them ready for the RCA jacks. The tape and marker are just extra precautions, you could also just drill the holes if you want.

  • Attach the RCA jacks by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or near he top and bend them down to make soldering easier. Take the Black output wire with the longest amount of bare wire and solder it to all three ground rings like in the picture below. Take the Red wire and solder it to the Red and White jacks. Take the Blue wire and solder it to the yellow jack.

  • Now you are ready to put the mainboard into the case. First you need to adjust the color pot on the bottom left of the mainboard. Attach the RCA and power cables and use a game with nice bright colors you are familiar with like Pitfall or Frogger. Adjust the pot so the colors are just right. Then peel off the bottom of the double sided tape and stick it to the right side of the bottom case. Replace the foam dust covers, top case, and the screws and you are ready to play your Atari with composite video! Please leave a comment below and let me know how it works!